Stargazing in Madeira: the best places to see the Milky Way
Where to see the stars in Madeira: Pico do Areeiro, Paúl da Serra, Fanal and Achada do Teixeira, why the clouds help, the best months and moon phases, the Perseids, and how to stay warm and safe at night.
This page first appeared on Madeira Blog on 12 June 2006. We have rewritten it with up-to-date information.
In June 2006 this blog drove up to Paúl da Serra at night and came back amazed: “millions, billions … zillions” of stars, a sky so full that it looked as if the moon was up when it was not. The view has not changed. The high plateaus still have truly dark skies, and the nearest of them is about 40 minutes by car from Funchal.
Why Madeira is good for stars
- Height. Several viewpoints are well above 1,000 m, and the summit road to Pico do Areeiro reaches 1,818 m.
- The clouds. On many nights a layer of cloud sits below the high plateaus. It hides the lights of Funchal and the coast, and above it the sky is black.
- No towns up top. The mountains and the Paúl da Serra plateau have no villages and no street lights.
Portugal’s Institute of Astrophysics and Space Sciences lists Pico do Areeiro and Fanal among the best places in Portugal to observe the night sky.
Where to go
| Place | Height | Why go |
|---|---|---|
| Pico do Areeiro | 1,818 m | The highest point you can drive to. Wide views, often above the clouds. Can be crowded at sunset, quiet after dark. |
| Paúl da Serra | about 1,500 m | A wide, empty plateau in the west with a huge open sky. The original 2006 trip. |
| Fanal | about 1,100 m | Old laurel trees under the stars. Magical on a clear night, but often in fog. |
| Achada do Teixeira | about 1,600 m | Above Santana, at the start of the path to Pico Ruivo. A quieter alternative to Pico do Areeiro. |
See Pico do Areeiro and Pico Ruivo, sunrise at Pico do Areeiro and Fanal.
When to go
- Pick a dark night. The best week is the one around the new moon. A full moon washes out all but the brightest stars.
- Summer for the Milky Way. The bright centre of the Milky Way is best seen in the evening from around May to September.
- The Perseids. This meteor shower peaks around 12 and 13 August. In a dark place you can see dozens of shooting stars an hour after midnight.
- Winter for clear, sharp skies. Orion and the winter stars are spectacular, but nights on the summit can drop close to freezing.
- Check the clouds. The webcams show whether the summits are clear. If Pico do Areeiro is in fog, try Paúl da Serra, or the other way round.
Staying safe and warm
- Drive up before dark if you can. The mountain roads are steep and winding, and there are no street lights. Watch out for fog and for cattle and sheep on the road at Paúl da Serra. See driving in Madeira.
- Bring warm clothes, even in August: a fleece, a windproof jacket and a hat. It is often 10 °C colder than in Funchal, and windy.
- Stay near the car park. Do not walk mountain paths in the dark. Paths also need a booking. See trail fees and booking.
- Use a red light or a dimmed phone screen, so your eyes stay used to the dark. It takes about 20 minutes for them to adjust fully.
- No car? Several companies in Funchal run evening stargazing tours with transport and a telescope.
For more ideas for the evening, see things to do in Funchal.