Madeira’s microclimates: why the weather changes every few kilometres
Why it can be sunny in Funchal, foggy on the plateau and raining in Santana on the same morning: Madeira’s microclimates explained, with real rainfall figures and how to use them to plan each day.
This page first appeared on Madeira Blog on 4 April 2007. We have rewritten it with up-to-date information.
In April 2007 this blog described Madeira’s weather as a “weather salsa”: wind in Caniço, sunshine from Funchal to Ponta do Sol, clouds in the north and clear blue sky on Paúl da Serra, all on one drive. It is still the best short description of the island’s climate. Madeira is only 57 km long, but its mountains rise to 1,862 m, and they split the island into several small climates.
Why the weather changes so fast
Three things shape Madeira’s weather.
- The trade winds. For much of the year a steady wind blows from the north-east. It pushes moist Atlantic air against the north side of the island, where it rises, cools and turns into cloud.
- The mountains. The central ridge, with Pico Ruivo at 1,862 m and Pico do Areeiro at 1,818 m, acts as a wall. The north slopes catch the cloud and the rain. The south coast lies in their shelter.
- Height. Air cools by roughly 0.6 °C for every 100 m you climb. On a mild day in Funchal it can be around 10 °C colder on Pico do Areeiro, and in winter the peaks sometimes see frost or a light covering of snow.
The main zones
| Area | What to expect |
|---|---|
| South coast (Funchal, Câmara de Lobos, Ribeira Brava, Ponta do Sol, Calheta) | The sunniest and driest part of the island. Funchal gets about 570 mm of rain a year and around 2,300 hours of sun. |
| North coast (Santana, São Vicente, Porto Moniz) | Greener, cooler and much wetter. Estimates for Santana are close to 1,900 mm a year, more than three times Funchal. |
| Mountains (Pico do Areeiro, Pico Ruivo, Encumeada) | Cold, windy and often in cloud, but on good days high above it, with the famous “sea of clouds” below. |
| Paúl da Serra plateau and Fanal | A high, open plateau at around 1,400 to 1,600 m. It is either in thick fog or in bright sunshine, and it can change within minutes. |
| East (Caniço, Machico, Caniçal, Ponta de São Lourenço) | Drier and windier. The bare cliffs of São Lourenço look nothing like the green north. |
The laurel forest, the Laurisilva, lives on this cloud. The trees comb water from the passing mist, which is why the north slopes stay green even in a dry summer. See the Laurisilva forest.
The seasons still matter
Microclimates decide where it rains; the season decides how much. In Funchal, June, July and August are almost dry, with only a few millimetres of rain a month. Most rain falls from October to March. The sea is around 18 °C in late winter and spring and 23 to 24 °C in August and September. See the best time to visit Madeira and Madeira in winter.
How to use the microclimates
- Look before you drive. The webcams show the north coast, the mountains and Funchal live. If Pico do Areeiro is in cloud at 8 am, it may clear by 10, or it may not; the cameras tell you.
- Have a plan B on the other side of the island. If the north is grey, go west along the south coast to Ponta do Sol or Calheta. If Funchal is under a low cloud, the plateau may be above it in sunshine.
- Dress in layers. A T-shirt day in Funchal can mean a jacket at Ribeiro Frio and gloves on Pico do Areeiro. See the packing list.
- Take warnings seriously. Heavy rain on the north slopes can close levadas and roads even when the south is fine. Check weather warnings before a walk.
- Wind is a different story. The wind that matters for flights blows at the airport on the east coast. See Madeira airport and the wind.
Our weather page shows the forecast for different parts of the island, and Madeira in the rain has ideas for the days when the clouds win.
Sources: IPMA, climate normals for Funchal 1991–2020, Wikipedia, Santana (climate table, adjusted from the Queimadas station), Observatório do Clima da Madeira, observed climate